Paper Cup

Six businesses in, Sydney café mogul Adriano Matteoni (of Glebe’s Clipper and Annandale’s Clover fame) has finally opened the shop he’s always dreamed about.

A two-minute stroll from Stanmore Station, walking into Paper Cup – with its bare concrete floor and exposed brick walls – feels strangely akin to entering a bomb bunker hidden beneath Camperdown Cellars. Boldly straddling the line between minimalist and bleak, the colour scheme would be completely monochrome if it wasn’t for a cluster of red pendant lights with exposed wiring hanging from the ceiling.

On ground level, a shiny new Synesso espresso machine – the Rolls Royce of coffee ware – sits staunchly on the counter, producing near perfect espresso shots and one-size-only takeaways with the help of a friendly Japanese barista-in-the-making. Under the guidance of an encouraging Matteoni, these shots are pulled using Paper Cup’s own ‘Natsu’ blend of Coffee Alchemy beans. There’s cold drip on offer too, which is left to stand for twenty-four hours to develop its rich caramel body before being served over ice.

The menu is as stripped back as the shop fit-out, but what it lacks in size, it makes up for with unique flavour pairings. Fried eggs come out beautifully runny in the pan, with Serrano ham, sage and dense toast. The Baharat beans with labne, maple syrup and toast offers a Middle Eastern take on the humble baked beans. Same goes for the Arabian Bircher with fruit and yoghurt – the star of the menu – despite traversing the dessert side of breakfast.

A couple of sandwich options see Paper Cup punching in the breakfast/lunch weight division, but only just. If Matteoni’s previous cafes were built on a tried-and-tested inner-west formula, then Paper Cup sees him venture off the safe and familiar path for the time being.

Paper Cup: 157/161 Cambridge St, Stanmore